Cape Kidnappers

Jim and I recently took a trip to Cape Kidnappers, one of the local Hawke’s Bay attractions.  The Cape creates the southern coastline of the Bay and is clearly visible from our house.  It is also home to what is claimed by New Zealanders to be “the largest and most spectacular mainland nesting place of gannets in the world.”  We questioned this description because we think of NZ as an island rather than a chunk of mainland, but I guess that’s getting sort of nit-picky!

The Cliffs of Cape Kidnappers

The Cliffs of Cape Kidnappers

 

The origin of the Cape’s name is a little murky, but basically boils down to the label coming from the famous British explorer, Captain James Cook, who sailed to New Zealand several times during his travels and was the first person to circumnavigate and map the country.  The story goes that in 1769 during Cook’s first voyage to NZ, local Maori attempted to kidnap a young Tahitian servant boy from Cook’s ship, Endeavour.  The boy escaped from the islanders and swam back to the ship and to safety.   Thus, the Captain gave the name Cape Kidnappers to the area.  At the tip of the headland is a pointed rock the juts out of the water that was named the Fish Hook by the Maoris.  According to their legends it is with this hook that their ancient god Maui pulled the North Island from the ocean.

 

The Fish Hook

The Fish Hook at the head of Cape Kidnappers

 

The only ways to get to the gannet colonies are by tractor along the beach at low tide, or overland through a private property by bus.  We took the bus option!  The 5,000 acre farm that makes up the majority of Cape Kidnappers is owned by an American who has built a lodge and a golf course there, as well as his personal residence.  Besides being home to the gannet colonies and catering to tourists, the farm also has active beef and sheep operations. The two tour companies that provide access to the gannets have a deal to enter the property and this is the only means by which a visitor can access the Cape.  According to the literature, there are approximately 20,000 birds that return to the Cape’s four main colonies each year to nest.  The Australasian Gannet is a member of the Booby family and they mate for life, rearing only 1 chick per year.  When the baby gannet is about 4 months old it leaves for Australia and doesn’t come back to NZ for 3-5 years, when it is ready to begin the reproductive phase of its life.  It is reported that the bird generally lives between 25 and 40 years.

 

Soaring Gannet

A soaring gannet comes in for a landing.

Colony of Gannets

The colony of gannets at the top of Cape Kidnappers.

 

The tour itself lasted about 3 hours.  It took a little over an hour to get there; time for pictures, tea and biscuits; then another hour back.  It was amazing that you could get so close to the birds… they were all behind a low, chain-link barrier and stayed on their side, swooping in over tourists to land in the large group.  Sometimes they would take off and just land again, other times you could see one carrying something in its beak to eat.  They were pretty birds, but the smell was pretty overpowering!  Can you imagine what the stench of thousands and thousands of gannets’ droppings smells like?  Whew!

 

Gannet With Food

A gannet with food in his beak comes back to the flock.

Gannet Close Up

Up close and personal with a Kidnapper Gannet.

 

The views from Cape were really very good.  There was a little haze in the distance, but overall it was a great day to visit and take a few pictures.  It was one of the first really warm days of Spring and we managed to pick a day that the wind wasn’t too strong.

 

Cove

A cove along the shore of the Cape.

Kidnapper Sheep

Some of the local sheep having a look at the visitors.

 

We enjoyed the afternoon experiencing more beautiful scenery here in the Hawke’s Bay region.

 

Cape Scenery

Some Cape Kidnappers Scenery

 

 

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Samoa Pictures

Samoa BeachTo see pictures from our trip to Samoa, click here then click “Samoa” on the following page.

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Kiwi Quarterly-Volume 4:Issue 2

kiwilogoSince the status quo is maintained pretty regularly around our place, almost anything out of the ordinary becomes, if not newsworthy – at least noteworthy! From irregular occurrences on the farm, to international travel to exploring a little closer to home…. for the first time in a while, we have experienced a little of all of that and it has made time fly by.

Since most days on our little farm pass without a ripple on the surface, we felt like things were really chaotic when, in two days we had two separate animal breakouts! The first, a cattle escape was quite strange in that not only had the cattle been going walkabout for some time, but they had apparently been putting themselves back in, so we never knew they had left our property! The neighbors did know but apparently didn’t feel like it was important enough to tell us until one wayward steer met the woman next door at her front doorstep as she was on her way to work. The second breakout came from our tiniest goat, Emily. On April Fool’s Day, we had just finished breakfast and I was washing dishes at the sink when I just happened to look out the window and see her trip-trapping down the road! I threw on some shoes and took off after her. Luckily, she only got a little way down the road and came back as soon as she saw me. Her escape route turned out to simply be a broken board that exposed a hole under the fence.  Jim fixed it, so now Emily should stay put!

Who me?  What'd I do?

Who me? What’d I do?

On a more domestic note, I’ve been on a bread making kick over the last few months… more specifically a quest to make a nice sourdough loaf. I’ve only ever found  really good NZ sourdough in the shops one time and that was back when we lived in Hamilton, so I’ve resorted to making it myself. After many trials and several recipes I’ve finally found one I like, albeit with a few adjustments to suit our tastes and kitchen conditions. I’ve learned that it really isn’t just a matter of following a recipe to make nice bread, it takes a lot of research and fine-tuning! In addition to the sourdough, I’ve also found a nice method of making French baguettes, so now there are always a couple in the freezer ready to put into the oven.

Yummy French baguettes.

The sourdough loaf I ultimately chose after all of the experimenting.

Throughout the year we see a lot of boats and ships come and go into and out of Napier, but one Sunday as we were on our way to a bbq, I happened to notice a particularly interesting yacht sailing into Ahuriri Bay as we drove by. We didn’t have time to stop and take a picture, so I’ve borrowed the one below that appeared in our local paper, The Hawke’s Bay Today. The vessel is one of the world’s biggest personal super-yachts owned by Russian billionaire, Andrey Melnichenko. It is named “A” after his wife, Alexandra, and cost about $300 million USD! I think it is a pretty yacht and was a treat to get to see. It stayed moored in the bay all day, as it was still there when we drove by on our way home later in the afternoon.  I could still see it from our house, gleaming white in the water as the setting sun reflected on its hull. Sometime later in the evening, just as it was getting dark, I looked back out and didn’t see it anymore… I guess it had headed back out to sea, continuing on its travels around New Zealand.

Russian superyacht "A".

Russian superyacht “A”.

I’m always surprised when I see world-famous entertainers appear in little ol’ New Zealand. It’s such a small country and so far from most places that I find it unusual when bigger names play tour dates here. One such name that recently appear on the local marquis was Billy Connolly, the comedian/actor from Scotland. He apparently has come to NZ on several occasions, mostly because he just really likes the place! Jim and I have liked him for a number of years thought it would be a nice night out to watch his show. We did enjoy the performance and were surprised to hear that Connolly now has Parkinson’s Disease which will affect the amount of shows he will be able to do in the future… NZ may not be on the books after this tour.

Logo from Billy Connolly's latest tour.

Logo from Billy’s latest tour.

After a couple of years of being farm-bound, we finally took a vacation. With all of our birds safely at the home of fellow pigeon fanciers, Lynn and Rodger, and the dogs and cat stowed away at well-researched kennel and cattery – Jim and I headed to Samoa. We had it in our minds that this island was a good distance from New Zealand and would take about 5 hours flying time to get there, but we were pleasantly surprised to arrive at Faleolo Airport in about 3 ½ hours from Auckland. It was a real shocker to leave the cold weather of NZ and get off the plane in the heat and humidity of tropical Samoa! But, that’s exactly what we wanted – a good dose of heat to get us through the rest of winter. It took a few days to acclimatize ourselves, but after that we were good to go.

A scenic bay on the northeast side of Upolu.

A scenic bay on the northeast side of Upolu.

The first few days of the trip we spent in the Samoan capital city of Apia. The city is home to around thirty-something thousand people and we found it be a pretty clean place as island cities go. It had no shortage of Italian restaurants and even had a well-attended McDonald’s, though several people we spoke to complained at how expensive it is! We had the opportunity to talk to a lot of the locals and they were, on the whole, very nice people – happy to give you directions, tell you where to find things, etc. The only real exception to this was the local con-men… don’t get me wrong, they were extremely nice, they just weren’t out to help you! Once you knew what to look for it was easy to pick them out as they all dressed similarly and carried the same gear. They would hit you up for “donations” for this group or that, and if all else failed, they’d try to sell you a “Samoa 2014” sarong to take home as a souvenir! One guy just wouldn’t give up and, after failing to get a donation from Jim, he at least wanted to bum a cigarette. In the end, after a lot of negotiation, the guy ended up buying the cigarette from Jim and walking off in a huff!

The clock tower is point from which most directions are given in Apia.  If you can find it, you can find anything else!

The clock tower is the point from which most directions begin in Apia. If you can find it, you can find most anything else!

Before leaving the Apia area, we went to see the home of writer Robert Louis Stevenson. By island standards it was a well-maintained museum and worth a visit. Unfortunately, time and the heat and humidity of the area are taking their toll on the contents and the house itself. The museum does house first edition copies of two of his novels and luckily they are kept in a sealed glass display case or else they would be doomed to the same fate of decay as the other books that are on shelves and desks throughout the home. The present owner has put a lot of money into maintaining the building, but more will be needed to ultimately save it. The grounds seem to be very well kept and the driveway is probably the prettiest I’ve ever seen. Stevenson is buried on the hillside adjacent to the property and there is a walkway to the gravesite, but after seeing a couple of very puffed and sweaty tourists emerge from the bush, we decided to pass on paying our respects!

The home of writer Robert Louis Stevenson.

The home of writer Robert Louis Stevenson, Villa Vailima.

The driveway leading up to Villa Vailima is beautifully planted in tropical shrubs.

The driveway leading up to Villa Vailima is beautifully planted in tropical shrubs.

After a few days in Apia, we rented a car and moved into the highlands for the remainder of the trip. It was only about 20 minutes or so out of town, but felt like a world away being in rural Samoa. We stayed in a privately owned home that was built like a Samoan falè. While traditional in style, it was thoroughly modern in convenience. Since we had to have a car to get to the falè, we took the opportunity to drive around the island of Upolu, one of the two main islands that make up the country. In most cases the roads are well marked both by signs and arrows indicating the direction of travel. Although in some cases we did see some faint two-headed arrows painted on the road that pointed in both directions! This was obviously left over from when Samoa switched from driving on the right side of the road, to the left side. I guess they figured the old part of the arrow would fade away in time!

One of the main sources of transportation on Samoa is this type of bus seen here parked in a village.

One of the main sources of transportation on Samoa is this type of bus seen here parked in a village.

Driving around Samoa took a bit of guesswork and definitely required a map. It was fine to get directions from people to take this road or that, but the problem proved to be that there aren’t any road signs! So, it doesn’t do any good to know the name of the road. We drove around the whole of Upolu and only encountered one sign – and that included driving in Apia city. However, the daily excursions were worthwhile because we got to see what life was like in the smaller villages that dot the island. We were absolutely amazed at the number of churches on the island… in a small village of a couple hundred people, it was not unusual to see 5 or 6 good sized churches. The majority seemed to be Seventh-Day Adventist, Assembly of God, Methodist and Catholic. In Apia there was a big, beautiful, brand new Catholic Church that was one of the prettiest churches I have ever seen.

The new Catholic Church in Apia is a beautiful piece of workmanship.

The new Catholic Church in Apia is a beautiful piece of workmanship.

The inside of Apia's grandest church.

The inside of Apia’s grandest church.

Most of the villages were well manicured with tropical shrubs lining the roads and peoples’ homes. We found it interesting that most modern homes (and I mean modern in the sense that they have 4 walls and a roof, rather than a thatched hut-type dwelling) also had a more traditional falè in the front of, or near the home. Falès are traditionally oval and have wooden posts holding up a domed roof. More modern versions seem to be rectangular with flat rooftops. They have no walls, but sometimes can be seen with curtain-like fabric hoisted up between the posts, presumably to block out the sun. We often saw people taking a “siesta” in them during the heat of the day.

Modern construction has the fale with a metal roof rather than thatching.

Modern construction has the fale with a metal roof rather than thatching.

On a couple of our little driving tours we encountered large groups of school children walking home (so many, in fact, that we wondered where they possibly could have come from!). We were surprised to see the global obesity problem has even hit many of the rural school kids of Samoa. We couldn’t figure out how this could be and asked our local hostess about the issue. She said it is because of their diet… they mostly eat yams and taro (a local root vegetable) and they are almost totally composed of carbohydrates. Also, the only meat they generally get is greasy pork and their favorite part is the fat.  As casual observers, we found another couple of culprits in their little roadside grocery stalls: their single serve bottle cokes are 750mls or about 25 ounces and the kids all buy after-school ice treats that are mostly sugary syrup. When you add all of that together and take into consideration that Samoans don’t lead a very active lifestyle as well, you get the very real possibility of obesity. Luckily not all have fallen victim, as our little friend below.

A friendly and curious school girl stops to get her photo taken.

A friendly and curious school girl stops to have me take her picture.

In all, our time in Samoa was relaxing and enjoyable and we rate it highly in comparison to the other Pacific Islands we have visited. In no time our trip was over and we were heading back to NZ. We chose to fly out of and into Auckland rather than another, closer airport so that we could take the opportunity to visit our friends Mike and Lien who live there. As it turned out, Lien was working and Mike was only able to chat for a little while due to a bridge tournament! But, two weeks later they drove down to visit us as part of their Anniversary Weekend out. Instead of spending the day catching up at the house like we usually do, we all packed into the car for a 10 minute drive to a little scenic spot that Jim and I have been driving by for two years but have never stopped to investigate. It was a bit of a hike, but we were rewarded with two pretty nice waterfalls for the effort!

The first of two waterfalls not far from our house.

The first of two waterfalls not far from our house, Te Ana Falls.

The three-tiered Tangoio Falls.

The second is the three-tiered Tangoio Falls.

Recent weeks have been a nice reminder of the beautiful things we have in our regional neighborhood of the South Pacific and right here on our doorstep.

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Kiwi Quarterly-Volume 4:Issue 1

kiwilogoAnother hot, dry summer has come and mostly gone in the Hawke’s Bay region of New Zealand and we’ve moved into autumn. Over the summer months water was a critical issue around our place and we were faced with some close calls. We managed to make a couple of day trips around the countryside on the weekends as we continued with our house renovations during the week. But for the most part, it’s been business as usual.

Sunrise over the Pacific Ocean... not something I get up to see too often!

Sunrise over the Pacific Ocean… not something I get up to see too often!

We started off the summer season a little behind the curve having not stored up as much water as we usually would have with part of our water collection system being down during the garage building phase of our renovations. To add to this, the farmer next door who has traditionally supplied water to this farm – as well as to many others along the road – decided he no longer wishes to provide this service. So we’ve been left to come up with an alternate way to water our cattle. In the beginning, we were giving the cows water from our house tanks, but that emptied half of our personal supply rather quickly! In the end we had to open all the gates to let them free-range for grass and have access to a small pond at the far end of the property. The new arrangement has forced us to make some changes in how we store rainwater, so we purchased a new tank for the farm water. It was delivered on a truck through a couple of tight squeezes down the driveway and over a few squashed plants! Many thanks have to go to the truck driver for getting into a tight place with very little damage… the wrong guy would have said ‘no way’ and left the tank on the side of the road!

A tight turn in the driveway.

A tight turn in the driveway.

Made it into the paddock with only a few smashed plants and a scraped tree!

Made it into the paddock with only a few smashed plants and a scraped tree!

Another tight fit through the gate and the tank is almost at its final resting place.

Another tight fit through the gate and the tank is almost at its final resting place.

The new tank in place... with a big steer to look after it.

The new tank in place… with a big steer to look after it.

For our personal use of water, we have what Jim calls the “Water Defcon Scale”, taken from the U.S. Armed Forces’ Defense Readiness Condition criteria. It goes like this:

WATER DEFCON SCALE

DEFCON 5-No restrictions, water usage encouraged!

DEFCON 4-No restrictions except lawn watering with tank water is prohibited.

DEFCON 3-All tank water usage prohibited except showering/bathing, full dishwasher loads, essential clothes washing. Bath water to be used for toilet flushing.

DEFCON 2-All tank water usage prohibited except showering/bathing and hand-washing dishes. Bath water to be used for toilet flushing.

DEFCON 1-Out of water, no usage possible. CALL FOR WATER!

We had to drop down to DEFCON 2 a couple of times over the summer but thankfully never ran completely out.  I can happily report that after a really good rain in the past couple of weeks we are comfortably back at DEFCON 4.  It’s good to know that even if we do get down to the bottom of the tanks, our local Bay View Volunteer Fire Brigade is not only our fire fighting team, but also our closest water supplier!

nzfs
As our house renovations go, the builders got back to work after an extended holiday break over Christmas and New Year’s and finished the garage. They then joined Jim on the master bathroom where he had been working removing old walls and fixtures. As of the most recent report, the builder says he only has a day or two left and he will be finished. Then it’s up to the plasterer and us to finish what’s left.

The garage is pretty well finished except for paint... and that's left for us to do!

The garage is pretty well finished except for paint… and that’s left for us to do!

A few weeks ago, Jim and I went for a weekend drive and stopped at the Pukaha Wildlife Center for lunch. While we only went to the café in the visitor’s center, the organization is much more than a restaurant and t-shirt shop. It is run by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation and is responsible for an area of forest in the Wairarapa Region that is home to threatened NZ wildlife. It operates conservation and breeding programs and is the starting/ending points for walking and hiking tracks through some of the last of New Zealand’s untouched forests. While sitting at our outdoor table eating our lunch, we were approached by a native NZ parrot, the Kaka. He was very interested in our food and promptly came over to investigate my plate. The second I took my eyes off of my food to get my camera, down his beak went into the sour cream on my plate! He looked quite pleased with himself having stolen his big dollop of cream… but it wasn’t really what he wanted and he proceeded to smear it all over our table. Thus was our first experience with a Kaka.

The curious Kaka comes to our table to have a look at the food selection.

The curious Kaka comes to our table to have a look at the food selection.

Jim and the Kaka talk over the lunch menu.

Jim and the Kaka talk over the lunch menu.

During this mini-road trip we also stopped for coffee, but it was no ordinary cup of coffee. It was java from the Tui Brewery of Mangatanoka! Of course, those outside of New Zealand may not recognize the relevance of this statement, so let me explain. As in most places, different regions in NZ have loyalties to different beers. When we lived in Hamilton there were strong allegiances to Waikato Draught and Lion Red. Since moving to Hawke’s Bay, we’ve discovered that people like and support Tui. Maybe it’s love and support Tui. Like the signs say – “Tui…It’s the beer around here.” Tui’s ad campaigns in recent years have featured their brewery, so it’s pretty famous – at least in New Zealand! We had previously been told that the brewery, the heart of the Tui operation, wasn’t too far down the road. And it was true… right down State Hwy 2 was the Tui HQ… the Brewery – we had to stop, at least for coffee – it was a tad too early for beer!

Which one of these Tui Girls is the imposter?

Which one of these Tui Girls is the imposter?

The "New Zealand-Famous" Tui Brewery.

The “New Zealand-Famous” Tui Brewery.

Another outing for us was the weekend of the Napier Art Deco Festival. Not being ones to usually attend such events, we happened to be in town when it was going on, so decided to have a look downtown to see what it was all about. Since Napier is one of the best preserved cities of Art Deco architecture in the world, it celebrates every year with a weekend dedicated to the era. People dress up in clothes from the 1920’s and 30’s and drive around town in old cars from the period… it’s really quite a sight. We were surprised to see so many people all dressed up in Gatsby-esque attire and flapper wear and, apparently, it’s that way every year. A lot of people from all around New Zealand come to Napier to celebrate the unique collection of heritage buildings and participate in events central to the Art Deco theme.

Activity from the Art Deco Festival along Napier's Marine Parade.

Activity from the Art Deco Festival along Napier’s Marine Parade.

An old car parked in front of the Masonic Building.  Festival goers having lunch in the background.

An old car parked in front of the Masonic Building. Festival goers having lunch in the background.

The home of the Daily Telegraph is an example of one of Napier's Art Deco buildings.

The home of the Daily Telegraph is an example of one of Napier’s Art Deco buildings.

Our business as usual must include a word about our pigeons. Summer is the time when racing pigeon training beings before the racing season gets into full swing in autumn. Our training season went pretty much as usual except for one day: When we left our house, the weather was fine, the winds were calm. Hawke Bay was flat as glass. When we released the birds, it was the same. Sometime later, as we were heading home, the winds picked up dramatically. As we passed the bay on the way home there were white caps everywhere. When we got home, not one of birds had made it home and by that night, only five had managed to make it back. In the days and weeks to follow a few more came back home but many of them have never seemed to perform properly again. We don’t really know what happened that day, if it was the weather, or if was aftershocks from some earthquakes they had had in the area at the time, or what. Whatever the reason, it put a damper on our racing season before it even started. Hopefully things will improve before the last race in May!

One of our fliers.

One of our fliers.

While most days around our place pass fairly uneventfully, the last day of the quarter was “different” for lack of a better description. We had to arrange a meeting to hand over some goods a guy had purchased from us via an internet auction and that ended up taking the best part of the day; we had to get an escaped steer back onto our property and, despite our failed efforts, he managed to get himself back on his own – we don’t actually know how but gather it has to do with jumping fences; and to top it all off, the Hawke’s Bay region was rattled by a 5.4 magnitude earthquake! We didn’t have any damage here, but certainly felt a good bit of movement. I guess it’s probably good to have things shaken up every now and then – no pun intended.

Earthquake HB

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